It’s been over 2 weeks since I’ve been able to write a blog post, but not for lack of desire to do so. Today marks day 15 of the Benedictine College whirlwind Europe tour in which we are following the steps of the apostles and more. We’re actually in Rome right now and were just standing in St. Peter’s Basilica yesterday, but I want to work chronologically to share our group’s experiences with you. The first 10 days of the trip consisted in an amazing land and sea tour of Greece and Turkey. Among our group were people ranging from under one year old to over seventy, including six Benedictine College students, my immediate family of four, my parents, one student’s grandmother, and a few family members of another student. The map below traces our itinerary.
As the title of this post indicates, we have seen several key sites in the early Church over the past couple weeks. We began in Athens, where we were able to preach from the Acts of the Apostles on the very spot where Paul proclaimed Christ’s resurrection to the Gentiles (Acts 17). We immersed ourselves in Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia, site of ecumenical councils and for centuries the most exquisite church in the world. We prayed the rosary in the very house where Mary lived in Ephesus, and we stood inside the cave on Patmos where St. John wrote Revelation. We basked in the sun on a beach at Rhodes, near the very place where St. Paul was shipwrecked (a different kind of experience, granted!).
As if this was not enough, the trip was actually more than a pilgrimage. I was asked a great question by one traveler: “What would you say is the highlight or main point of the trip?” As I see it, this particular trip had not one but three focuses due to the uniqueness of the sites we encountered: First, it was a pilgrimage of faith in which we set ourselves in the very places some of the apostles lived and prayed for their intercession. We also arranged masses and talks from local priests who shared their insights into the Church in Greece and Turkey, the relationship of Catholicism and Greek Orthodoxy, and the life of Christians in their region today. Like other pilgrims, we had to battle elements such as the heat, seasickness, long days, small quarters, and–in the case of my family–tired and needy children. As with other pilgrimages, I think much fruit came about through these trials. I get so much joy from witnessing the wonder and edification of pilgrims in these places. Second, it was an academic experience that put us in touch with the roots of Greek culture, the Church, and Western civilization which was born through the fusing of the two. When we stood on Athens’ acropolis and in its agora, we were retracing the steps of those whom we have to thank for democracy and philosophy. In preparation for the trip, students read Greek myths in order to comprehend the significance of the temples and statues we saw, and they read the philosophy of Plato and Socrates to examine their critiques of these myths. They then read from the Acts of the Apostles to get a grasp of Paul’s journeys and preaching in addition to the Pauline epistles associated with the sites we visited (Ephesians, 1-2 Corinthians, Revelation). By this time they were probably tired of reading, but I had them next read some works of St. Ignatius of Antioch and St. Polycarp of Smyrna since we docked in nearby Smyrna (modern day Izmir). These men were “apostolic fathers,” meaning that their lives and writings show us what Christianity looked like in the generation following the apostles. Polycarp, for example, was a disciple of John, and if you read the epistles of Ignatius they sound a lot like Paul – as well as Catholicism today!
But the intellectual significance of these sites does not stop here. Students also read and heard about the ecumenical councils of Nicea, Constantinople (modern day Istanbul), and Ephesus. We owe our articulation of the Creed itself to the work of the Fathers at these councils. I was particularly moved when standing in the sites where the early Church labored and gave birth to the doctrines we still profess every day today. Finally, students read from the Liturgy of St. John Chrysostom, the principal liturgy of Greek Orthodoxy which has remained fundamentally unchanged for centuries upon centuries. This gave those who read from it the ability to better appreciate the similarities and differences between Eastern and Western Christianity as well as their respective beauties. During the trip, my wife and I also took many opportunities to admire the iconography of the Greek churches and to unfold its meaning to the group. I also, of course, had to buy a couple inexpensive icons along the way. Third, the trip was just plain fun. It so happens that the only way you can really get to all the sites we visited with a group is to take a cruise. Thus we got to enjoy the thrills of group meetings on the deck overlooking the crystal blue Aegean sea, astoundingly beautiful arrivals into some of the greatest ports in the world, and having a glass of wine next to a pool (I hardly drank any, but the wine was actually much cheaper than the beer–can you believe it?). The cruise was also great because we traveled while we slept at night and would often arrive in port at our next destination at 6:30 in the morning ready for another full day. It was also a life-saver because we didn’t have to change hotels and carry around our 3-month supply of goods needed for a small family’s survival.
Oh, and did I mention that, since we took the cruise, we “had to” stop at a couple places for their beaches and vistas? Santorini, for example, is the quintessential Greek isle. When we were there we felt like we were in a postcard–because that’s where all the postcard pictures actually come from. When we tendered back through the center of the island which has been all water since the volcano blew its top a few thousand years ago, we could see the sun setting on one side and the moon rising on the other. We were sitting above a live volcano, one which once witnessed one of the greatest explosions of earth’s history whose ashes reached all the way to Greenland. I couldn’t help but think both, ” hope this experience will never end” and “Get us outta here before she blows again!” With that said, this post has gone on long enough and the reader who has come this far is probably likewise ready to move on from here. Over the coming days and weeks I will be posting a lot of pictures from this trip and from our experience in Italy.
- Walking atop the remains of the apse in the Basilica of St. John in Ephesus where the apostle is buried.
- Jen in front of the building which houses the cave of St. John underneath
- Julia and Joseph with their friend who is now known as “Uncle Pete”
- Beautiful mosaic in Hahia Sophia depicting Justinian presenting Christ with the church and Constantine presenting him with the city.
- Me chowing on a spicy kebab recommended by our guide before entering Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar.
- Una bella donna ch’io trovato in Santorini;)
- Typical scene, carrying Julia’s backpack and dragging the stroller across Europe’s endless staircases
- Julia behind a slice of sausage and a glass of Santorini’s famous vinsanto wine overlooking the bay created by the island’s massive volcano
- Cruise itinerary
- BC students atop the Areopagus after hearing Acts 17 proclaimed.
- Wall filled with prayer requests at Mary’s House in Ephesus. The majority of pilgrims to this site are Muslims, who also honor our Blessed Mother.
- BC group looking spiffy on a formal night aboard our cruise ship in Greece.
- Hagia Irene (Holy Peace) Church, located within the great Topkapi Palace of the Ottoman sultans. Site of the First Council of Constantinople in 381 A.D.
- Mosaic of St. John dictating the words of Revelation, located on the entrance to the cave where he received them.
- The great Corinth Canal, which emperors tried to cut for millennia. It was finally completed under Napoleon’s watch.
- Walking through the underground Basilica Cistern in Istanbul.
- Icon of Christ descending into Hades and rescuing Adam and Eve. Common in Orthodox Churches throughout Greece and Turkey
- Muslim prayer niche in the site where the chair of the patriarch of Constantinople once stood in Hagia Sophia.
- Carp swimming the the underground cistern in Istanbul. You can now walk in one of these massive underground caves that used to serve as Constantinople’s water supply before the Ottoman invasion. Picture a basilica, but its pillars are underground.
- Olympic stadium reconstructed in Athens
- Ramparts from the great medieval city of Rhodes Town. This was home of the Knights of St. John or Hospitallers after the Crusades and before the moved to Malta to become known as the Knights of Malta.
- Sign marking St. John’s tomb
- Julia hiding in a hole behind the apse in St. John’s Basilica
- Joseph’s wake-up call for Julia after a night’s sleep riding the waves of the Aegean Sea.
- Sent Antuan, or St. Anthony’s Church, was the home of Pope John XXIII while he served as Vatican ambassador to Turkey.
- Fr. Julius, a Nigerian Franciscan, gave a talk to our group before celebrating mass for us in St. Anthony’s Catholic Church in Istanbul.
- Julia goofing around on the plane. Thank the Lord, she and Joseph were both good for the 13 total hours of flight time.
- Boarding our cruise vessel, the Louis Lines Cristal, for an 8-day journey through the Greek Isles and Turkey.
- Our bus driving right behind a metro tram on the same tracks. Just thought this was funny and not something you’d see in America.
- Joseph went nuts during mass at St. Anthony’s, so I brought him out for a diaper change and a little crawling out towards the hopping Istiklal Street of Istanbul. Later that night we got ripped off on our kebabs and my parents got ripped off on their taxi fare. This didn’t change the fact that it was a blast of an evening.
- Waiting for the plane to take off, Joseph decided to hang out in an open luggage bin. Can you believe one actually had free space in it?
- Facade of the Church of St. George, seat of the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople—the #1 bishop in the Orthodox Church.
- Holy Wisdom himself, Jesus Christ, along with his Mother above the place where the altar once stood in Hagia Sophia.
- Our tiny cruise cabin which served as our home for a week. It got to be really tight really quick with four people and 3 months of living necessities in the little room.
- Ramages in front of Hagia Sophia (“Holy Wisdom”), with minarets in the background added by the Ottomans when they converted it into a mosque. It is now a museum.
- Our BC group in front of the Parthenon, temple to Athena situated atop Athens’ acropolis or “high city.â€
- Joseph, 9 months, continues to learn to walk in the very place the apostles walked. Here he shows his stuff in Hagia Sophia.
- Istanbul’s Blue Mosque, constructed across the ancient Hippodrome from the Hagia Sophia.
- Wasting no time to sample what Greek cuisine had to offer, for our first lunch we split a local café’s \ platter. The mousaka and dolmades were great.
- Getting Julia in a life vest for safety training aboard our ship was an interesting experience.
- Jen in front of a half-uncovered icon in Hagia Sophia. At one time the whole church was covered with icons. As a mosque, the Christian icons were completely plastered over. Now the secular state of Turkey has unveiled a few for visitors to see.
- Mosaic featuring Sultan Ahmet, the Ottoman Turk who conquered Constantinople in 1453. This picture is not for public viewing, but our guide knew the doorkeeper and we got to sneak in for a minute. It’s peculiar because here we have a Muslim in a Christian mosaic.
- Sipping Turkish coffee and tea in a niche of the Grand Bazaar.
- Massive nave of Hagia Sophia, under the largest church dome in the world until the construction of the Florence Duomo a millennium later.
- Jen prowling the outside streets of the Grand Bazaar. I’m proud—she only bought one thing!
- Mike and Sue Ramage on the boat approaching Istanbul with Hahia Sophia and the Blue Mosque in the background.
- Panorama view looking out on the acropolis from our Athens hotel room balcony.
- The beautiful blue lights adorning the nave of St. Anthony’s Church.
- Julia knocked out in the Hera Hotel—perfect location right next to the Acropolis Museum in downtown Athens.
- BC group in front of Hagia Sophia, the greatest Church in Christendom for centuries upon centuries and the site of ecumenical councils.